Wine and Wildfire Smoke: How Colorado Vintners Are Bracing for the Unexpected

Winemakers in western Colorado are keeping one cautious eye on the sky. With wildfires burning across the region again, the fear isn’t just flames — it’s flavor.

Smoke, when it lingers long enough, doesn’t just cloud the horizon. It seeps into the vineyards. And when it lands on grapes nearing harvest? That’s when wine starts to taste… different.

Smoke on the Vine, Not Just in the Air

At first glance, wildfire smoke and grape sugar don’t seem like a likely pairing. But ask any winemaker in Palisade — it’s a real issue.

“What’s going to happen is when the smoke is hanging in the atmosphere, the grape is going to absorb this smoke there. And it’s going to actually attach to the grape sugars,” said Patric Matysiewski, Cofounder and Winemaker at Sauvage Spectrum.

That means smoke compounds can wind up in the wine itself — not just around it. And not all smoky wine is a pleasant surprise. Sometimes it’s just… off.

Scott High, who runs Colterris Winery nearby, explained it plainly: “When you’re really close to harvest, that can get into the wine making process. And it would have a little bit of a smoky character. Could be found in the wine on occasion.”

It’s not guaranteed, but it’s definitely possible.

Close Fires = Real Problems

It’s not the first time Palisade’s vineyards have had to deal with wildfire fallout. And some vintages tell the story better than others.

A few years back, wildfires swept near De Beque Canyon and Horse Mountain. Those flames didn’t reach the grapes directly, but the smoke sure did.

“We were a lot more concerned a few years ago,” said High. “We had much more intense smoke fall out and ash fall out from those fires. And we were much more concerned about it at that time.”

That time, the smoke didn’t just hover — it dumped ash across the vineyards. It was visible. Tangible. And yes, it made its way into some barrels.

Can It Be Fixed? Sort of

All isn’t lost when smoke taints a harvest — but salvaging it takes extra work.

Matysiewski detailed how they’ve handled it before. “What we ended up having to do is get a specialized product to drop that flavor out to correct it,” he said. “And then blend it out with cleaner wine that was picked at a later time.”

Basically, they don’t throw it all out. They filter it, fix it, and blend it. It’s a patch — not a cure.

Rain: The Winemaker’s Secret Weapon

For now, the situation isn’t dire. The grapes are still maturing. Harvest is weeks away — maybe even months for some varietals.

That leaves room for nature to play its part. A bit of rain could go a long way.

“We’re still 50, 60, 70 days away from starting to harvest our different grape varieties,” said High. “So I think maybe a little bit of rain to wash it all away and I think we’ll be fine.”

Matysiewski echoed that optimism. “Looking at it right now, it shouldn’t be affecting us this year, which is great. And hopefully we can get some rain.”

The Science of Smoke Taint

Winemakers and scientists alike have been studying smoke taint for years — especially as wildfires have become more frequent across wine regions like Napa, Oregon, and now, Colorado’s Grand Valley.

Here’s how the risk stacks up depending on timing and exposure:

Stage of Grape	Smoke Risk Level	Explanation
Pre-veraison (early growth)	Low	Grapes still hard and less absorbent
Mid-season	Moderate	Sugar levels rise; smoke begins sticking
Close to Harvest	High	Soft skins + sugar = fast smoke uptake

And remember, not all grapes react the same. Thinner-skinned varietals like Pinot Noir and Syrah are more prone to smoke taint. Thicker-skinned grapes like Cabernet can resist it longer — but not forever.